Orkney Guides: Shapinsay
The island of Shapinsay is less than 30 minutes by vehicle and pedestrian boat from the Kirkwall Shapinsay Pier (Ferry Terminal) £6.10 return. With just 300 residents it’s a quiet place with interesting history and wildlife.
What to see?
Seals: They can be hard to spot but your best chance is in Balfour village on the seaweed covered foreshore. Keep your eyes and ears peeled for the seals resting.
Mill Dam RSPB: Bird lovers and walkers will find the RSPB reserve and the bird hide a welcome stop. Looking down on the man-made pond, you’ll see migratory birds, and birds-of-prey such as hen harriers. You’ll find the hide on the route to Galtness battery and the north-western part of the island.
Galtness Battery: This World War II concrete gun emplacement stands sentry over the firth; now traversed by ferries, but in WW2 it was German submarines the guns were looking for. Drive to the most northerly point of the paved road and then hike the farm track out to the point. There are no information boards, but you can read up on the site here.
Burroughtson Broch: An intriguing and evocative 3,000 year old ruin that you can walk inside to see how a farming community lived in the Iron Age. The large size and monolithic walls give a sense of how protected they would have been from both the rough natural elements and human raiders bent on taking what could be found.
Getting around
Orkney Ferries: Orkney Ferries operate a regular roll-on vehicle and passenger ferry service all-year round. The times for the season can be found on the Orkney Ferries website.
Bike Hire: The Shapinsay Development Trust provides a bike rental service with e-bikes from their headquarters in the village. The electric assist bikes are a great help with steeper hills on the island!
Walk!: The island is very walkable. As always be sure to bring plenty of layers to adapt to the rapidly changeable Orkney weather; water and snacks are recommended too as there are no shops on the island apart from David Sinclair’s (limited opening hours, do check) in Balfour village.
Where to eat and drink?
The Smithy: As the name suggests the islands only cafe or bar is housed in the old smithy cottage. A cosy spot for lunch after a breezy hike or drive exploring the island. Offering sandwiches, burgers and daily specials; The Smithy serves local Orkney beers on tap, international bottled beers and wines too. For the more elusive sunny days, there’s a nice sheltered garden across the village road. Limited operating hours, please check their Facebook for times.
Where to stay?
Iona: Iona cottage gets its name from the SS Iona who plied to and from the island for 70 years until her service came to an end when she sank at Shapinsay pier during a storm in November 1964. The cottage has great views over Elwick Bay and Balfour beyond; the accommodation is large and comfortable for a group of up to 6 family or friends, and good value compared other parts of Scotland and the UK. If you’ll be self-catering as you should expect to, remember to bring provisions with you from the mainland. The island has a shop you should look in for daily needs, but the Kirkwall supermarkets will have the full range of foods you might need to stay on Shapinsay for a few days.
